 Linum
Usitatissimum translates from the Latin as "most useful linen." In naming
this species, botanists recognized the inherent value of the humble flax plant.
For ten thousand years or more, man has known this gentle gift of nature was the
source of textiles with special properties: soft hand, rich color absorption,
lasting durability, and unrivalled comfort.
Always
ecologically-correct, every part of the flax plant is at man’s service. The
seeds provide oil for dyes, paint, cosmetics and floor coverings. When ground,
they form a flour used in poultices. The fibers have been used as sutures. The
by-products of linen production are processed into a pulp used for banknotes or
fiberboard. However, flax is most renowned as the raw material for an
extraordinary fabric.
Flax is one of the few
crops still produced in Western Europe, with nearly 130,000 acres under
cultivation annually. Climatic conditions in this region are perfect for growing
flax, and increasing worldwide demand for linen makes it an important cash crop.
 The
growing cycle is short and sweet, with only 100 days between sowing in March and
harvesting in July. The plant ripens by the end of June into golden yellow
color, and then it flowers, dotting the fields with blossoms of violet, blue and
white. This display is over quickly, however, for each flax plant blooms for one
day only.
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Harvesting: To preserve the full potential of each plant, flax is never
mowed but must be uprooted. Up through the Second World War, this was an
exhausting process done by hand. Today, mechanical grubbers do this tiring
work. |
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Drying:
After harvesting, the flax is stacked in hedges to dry. Once dried, the
seeds are removed. |
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Retting and Turning: Then flax is exposed to moisture to break down
the pectin that binds the fibers together. In the past, flax was retted in
rivers, particularly in the Lys region, which imparted a lovely golden glow
to the fibers. Today, for ecological reasons, retting is no longer performed
in rivers. The preferred method still requires the intervention of Mother
Nature as the flax is spread out in the fields and exposed to rain, dew and
sunshine for several weeks. |
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Stripping
and Combing: During these mechanical processes the fibers are separated
from the straw (shives), and then graded into the short fibers (tow) which
is used for coarser yarns, or the longer fibers (line) which will be used to
create the finest linen yarn. |
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 Spinning:
Drafting and doubling, or carding, draw out the long or short fibers into
sinuous "ribbons" which are then plied together on spinning looms in various
weights and thicknesses. The fine yarn is "wet spun" to impart a smoother,
shiny appearance. The tow are commonly "dry spun" yielding a less regular
and napped yarn. |
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Weaving,
Bleaching and Dyeing: Before any weaving occurs, the linen yarns are
examined for strength, evenness and pliancy. Close tolerances on these
properties are required because of the great speed of today’s power looms.
The looms of Libeco·Lagae run around the clock and are monitored by a
central computer to ensure quality and efficiency. During their 8-hour
shift, each weaver can now be responsible for 10 to 15 looms. |
After weaving, each
yard of fabric is examined and quality tested. If the fabric is not being used
in this raw state, it moves to the finishing department where it is bleached
and/or dyed. Bleaching linen requires consummate skill—enough chemicals to
remove any pectin or shive residue, but not so much as to compromise the
structure of the fibers. After bleaching or dyeing, various treatments to make
it crease- or soil-resistant can be applied.
 Linen
is crisp, clean and comfortable. Soft, yet strong and durable. The more it is
used, the softer and stronger it becomes. It can absorb up to 20% of its weight
in moisture before it feels damp, and easily releases moisture to the air to
remain cool and dry to the touch. Flax remains colorfast and launders
beautifully. It has the additional advantage to be non-allergenic. Flax requires
considerably fewer pesticides and fertilizers than other crops. The fibers are
recyclable and eventually biodegrade.
For all these reasons,
linen offers fashion designers unlimited creative potential, and wearers lasting
enjoyment. Bedding of pure or blended linen is in vogue once more. We never tire
of linen at the dining table. The utility of linen in the kitchen is unrivaled.
No other fiber can offer this unique blend of luxury and comfort, supreme
elegance and down-to-earth practicality.
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